Trim tabs do not work together, independently or intermittently.
1) Inspect fuse at fuse panel. Replace if necessary.
2) Verify that all connections at switch control box are tight and in place.
3) Make sure that switch assembly has a solid ground.
4) If the actuator cables were spliced inside the transom, inspect joint for positive connection.
5) If, after following steps stated above, the actuators still do not operate properly — STOP
- Check electrical connections behind switch and make sure ground wire is in place.
- The addition of a zinc anode will deter electrolysis. It is important that the zinc is in contact with the trim tab blade.
- To discourage any marine growth on tab or actuator, antifouling paint can be applied. When applying paint to the actuator, make sure it is fully retracted. Do not paint the stainless ram above the area that is exposed when retracted.
- If tabs malfunction or tabs become stuck in the down position while underway, remove pin or bolt at the lower mounting bracket.
- To reposition the actuator turn stainless steel ram clockwise and reattach. You can also re secure the tab manually by fastening the lower mounting bracket.
Trim Tab Installation Instructions
Warning: The following instructions contain important safety information and should be followed carefully. Failure to do so may result in injury and will void warranty.
Tools and Materials List
• Electric drill
• Wire crimper/cutter
• Tape measure
• 3/16″ & 3/8″ drill bits (.48 & .95 cm)
• 7/16″ (1.11 cm) wrench
• Small hammer
• 4′ (1.22 m) level
• Straight edge
• 3M 5200 adhesive caulking
• 2″ (5.08 cm) hole saw
• #2 & #3 Phillips screwdrivers
• 3M silicon marine sealer
1. Begin by first deciding where the trim tab kit will mount. Note: When laying out desired tab location, hold tab against transom 3/8″ (.95 cm) up from bottom of transom in line with hull. Make sure not to mount inside corner of hinge within 2″ (5.08 cm) of a strake edge. If this is not possible, move tab so as to cover strake edge (see Fig.1).
Note: High Performance tabs should be mounted with tapered end toward center of boat.
2. Using the 3/16″ (.48 cm) drill bit, drill hinge holes to a depth of 1-1/4″ (3.17 cm). When drilling tab and bracket holes, you may drill through the transom; the screws will seal the holes when inserted. All screws and fasteners are stainless steel. Do not use any other type of metal.It is recommended to use 3M 5200 adhesive caulking to bed the hinge and screws.Next, mount the hinge to the boat using the #14 x 1-1/4″ (3.17 cm) stainless steel sheet metal screws.
3. With bolts, washer, and nylon locking nuts provided, fasten lower mounting bracket to tab. Attach the actuator to the brackets top and bottom using the Delrin pin provided. (When mounting racing tabs, substitute delrin pin with 5/16 x 1″ stainless steel bolt provided. In order to position upper bracket against transom, you must lift trim tab so that the trailing edge is approximately 5/8″ above a straight edge held to hull. This 5/8″ measurement is for all tabs that have a trailing edge 9″ off of the transom. If the trailing edge is 12″ off of the transom, lift the tab so there is 3/4″ between the tab and the straight edge (see Fig. 2). When the tab is at the appropriate level, use the two outside holes of the upper bracket as a guide to mark mounting location. Mount upper bracket where it lays naturally against the transom to prevent binding during travel. (Do not adjust the upper bracket to the right or left, this will cause binding.) Remove upper bracket from actuator to mark upper screw hole. Drill three 3/16″ holes 1-1/2″ deep.
4. Warning: With some installations, fuel, water tanks or other systems may prevent the actuator wire from entering the hull through the upper mounting bracket. Be sure to check inside hull before drilling 3/8″ (.95 cm) wire hole. Using the centered hole in the upper mounting bracket as a guide, mark the wire hole. If all is clear, use the 3/8″ (.95 cm) drill bit. Drill completely through the transom. Pass the actuator cable through. Remove slack on wire into hole and seal with clear caulking or 3M 5200. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. If, however, you are prevented from drilling hole through bracket, simply drill a 3/8″ (.95 cm) hole 4″ to 5″ (10.16 to 12.7 cm) above waterline and insert wire. Cover hole and wire with a clamshell vent sealed with clear caulking for a waterproof and finished effect. To attach actuator to the upper bracket use black delrin pin or stainless steel bolt provided. Mount upper bracket using the three 1-1/4″ S.S. sheet metal screws. (We recommend using 3M 5200 adhesive caulking to bed the screws and bracket.
5. At the helm, find a good location for the tactile switch and cut a circular opening using a 2″ (5.08 cm) hole saw. Before cutting, make sure the area inside the helm is clear of wires and other equipment that could be damaged. Using the template on page 35, mark each stud location and drill four 3/16″ (.48 cm) holes through the helm. If the thickness of the helm is less than 1-1/4″ (3.17 cm), secure the switch with the nylon nuts provided. If the thickness of the helm exceeds 1-1/4″ (3.17 cm), apply a marine grade silicon sealer to each of the four drilled holes, to each stud and around the back of the tactile switch. Secure the switch and allow sealer to dry. When mounting the black control box, keep in mind that there is a 3′ (.91 m) lead that attaches to the back of the tactile switch. Make sure control box is mounted with wires facing down toward deck.
6. Following the trim tab switch wiring diagram, pull the 25′ (7.62 m) cylinder wires to the switch location. Be very careful of sharp edges that may damage the cable. Make all connections according to diagram. Remember the left switch controls the right starboard tab and the right switch controls the left port tab.